Project Details
- Project: Reupholstery
- Category: Furniture Upholstery
Our Task
Completely reupholstery chair and ottoman.We use high quality leather
Click here to see our Ethan Allen Wingback chair restoration
A good leather chair rarely travels alone. Somewhere nearby there is an ottoman that has spent decades catching heels, holding book stacks, and serving as an emergency seat when the whole family shows up at once. When a chair and ottoman set comes into our shop, we think of it as one piece of furniture in two parts, because that is how it was designed and that is how it has to leave, matched in color, grain, and firmness from every angle.
Sets like these are usually the best seat in the house, which is exactly why they wear out first. The reading chair gets sat in every evening while the sofa across the room stays showroom fresh. By the time owners call us, the question is rarely if something should be done. It is which of three doors to walk through: repair, re dye, or full reupholstery.
Here is something we see constantly: the two pieces of a set arrive in wildly different condition. The chair seat and arms take skin contact, body oils, and thousands of sit down and stand up cycles, so the finish wears through and the cushion compresses. The ottoman lives a different life. Heels and socks scuff its top, it slides across the floor daily, and it often sits closer to a window, so it fades on one side while the chair keeps its color in the shade.
Skin oils are the quiet culprit on the chair. They soak into headrests and armrests, darken the finish, and slowly break down the topcoat until the surface goes tacky or bald. Meanwhile the cushion core softens, the front edge of the seat collapses, and the piping along the arms rubs bare. The ottoman may look better overall while hiding a cracked frame corner from years of being dragged by one end. Reading each piece separately, then planning them together, is the heart of doing a set right.
Not every tired leather set needs new hides, and we would rather match the fix to the furniture than sell the biggest job available. Light scratches, dryness, and dull finish often respond to deep cleaning and professional conditioning. Worn color with sound leather underneath is a candidate for re dyeing, where the surface is cleaned, prepped, and refinished in a matched or brand new color. But once the hide itself has cracked through, torn at a seam, or gone stiff as cardboard, refinishing only paints over a failing material, and honest reupholstery is the answer.
When we assess a set, here is what settles the decision:
Every piece is quoted individually after this inspection, because two sets that look similar in photos can need completely different work underneath.
A full rebuild starts with teardown, and the old covers come off carefully because they are our patterns. Frames get reglued and blocked where joints have worked loose. Suspension is rebuilt to match the original, whether that means retying coil springs or replacing stretched webbing, and cushions get new high resilience cores wrapped to sit the way a broken in leather chair should, supportive with a soft first inch. The same layered thinking applies to nearly everything we cover, which is why our step by step chair reupholstery guide is our most shared piece of writing.
Then comes the leather work. Panels are cut around scars and brands so matching surfaces come from matching parts of the hide, seams are sewn with heavy bonded thread, and details like piping and pleats are placed exactly where the originals sat. Thick hide junctions, where welt meets seam at a corner, take machines with real punch, and the walking foot equipment on our machinery page is what keeps those layers feeding evenly instead of puckering. The skills transfer across everything leather in the shop, and honestly, what a car seat rebuild involves looks a lot like an ottoman once you get past the seat rails.
Decorative details ride along through the whole process. If the set carries nailhead trim, we pull each tack, save the pattern spacing, and reset new or original nails along the same lines. Exposed wood arms and legs get taped and padded during the build, then cleaned and waxed before delivery. Tufting, if the chair has it, is redone with buttons covered in the new hide and pulled to the original depth, because shallow tufting on a piece that was born deep buttoned looks like a bad haircut.
The make or break detail on any set is the match. Leather is a natural material, so two hides in the same color from the same tannery can still differ in grain and depth. We solve that by cutting both pieces from the same hide lot and planning the layout so the most visible panels of chair and ottoman come from the most similar sections. Do them together, always. Recovering the chair this year and the ottoman in three years guarantees a mismatch no supplier can prevent.
Grade matters too. For a hardworking reading set we usually recommend semi aniline top grain, which keeps natural character while surviving daily contact, though pigmented hides make sense for households with kids, dogs, and gravity fed snacks. If a client wants to keep original leather on one piece and replace the other, we lay samples against the survivor in daylight before anyone commits. You can see how matched sets come out in our leather work gallery, and the pairing principle holds whether the covering is hide or cloth. It even held for the antique outdoor furniture cushion set we built, where four separate cushions had to read as one family.
Leather furniture rewards small, boring routines. Keep the set a few feet from radiators and out of direct sun, since heat and ultraviolet light are the two fastest ways to age a hide. Dust with a soft dry cloth, blot spills the minute they happen, and condition two or three times a year with a product made for furniture leather, never saddle soap or kitchen cleaners. The conservation world backs this up, and the specialists at the Leather Conservation Centre preach the same fundamentals for leather objects of every age: gentle cleaning, stable conditions, patience.
Two set specific tips. First, rotate which direction the ottoman faces every few weeks so it fades evenly instead of on one side. Second, lift it when you move it rather than dragging, because dragging is what loosens those corner joints. Ten seconds of lifting saves a frame repair down the road.
A word about the ottoman’s second career as a coffee table, since in most houses that is exactly what it becomes. Leather tops handle books and feet fine, but hot mugs and sweating glasses will mark a hide just like they mark wood. A simple tray solves it, spreads the load, and gives the leather a fighting chance. If your household lives on the ottoman, tell us during the build and we will firm up the top foam so a tray of snacks does not tilt every time someone shifts their feet.
Often, yes. If the surrounding leather is sound and only the core has collapsed, we can open the cushion, replace the foam and wrap, and return it without touching the outer panels. It is a sensible middle step that buys years, and we will tell you plainly if your set is a candidate.
Done properly on healthy leather, it is a real fix. The process strips failed finish, repairs surface damage, and applies new color and topcoat that bond to the hide. On cracked or brittle leather it is a cover up, which is why we check the hide’s condition before recommending it.
Two to three times a year in most Pennsylvania homes, and up to four if the set lives in a dry, heavily heated room. More is not better, since overconditioning can soften finishes. A light application worked in with a soft cloth is all a healthy hide needs.
If your favorite chair and its sidekick are looking tired, let us sort out which door they need: repair, re dye, or the full rebuild through our furniture upholstery service. Details like the brass on the antique chair with nail trim we finished show how far the finishing touches can go. Start with our free online estimates page or call 717-383-6917, and bring the ottoman too. They go through this together.